St Albans Cathedral & Verulamium Museum

St Albans packs two thousand years of history into one short stroll. On the hilltop stands the mighty cathedral, built over the grave of Alban, Britain’s first saint — the oldest site of continuous Christian worship in the country. Down across the park lie the remains of Verulamium, one of the largest cities of Roman Britain, with a superb museum of its treasures. Together they make one of the best history days out anywhere near London.

The Cathedral and Shrine of St Alban

Alban was executed on this hill around 1,700 years ago for sheltering a Christian priest, and pilgrims have come ever since — his restored medieval shrine still stands behind the high altar. The great Norman tower was built from red Roman bricks scavenged from the ruined city below, the nave is the longest in England, and the medieval wall paintings are a rare survival. Entry is free (donations keep it that way), with towers tours and guided tours available, and the city’s excellent cafés and markets right outside the door.

Verulamium Museum and Park

A walk down through beautiful Verulamium Park — past the lake, a genuine Roman hypocaust preserved where it was found, and stretches of the original city wall — brings you to the Verulamium Museum, home to some of the finest Roman mosaics outside the Mediterranean. Recreated Roman rooms, dazzling wall plasters and hands-on discovery areas make it a favourite with children, and weekend talks often bring a Roman to life in the galleries. The Roman Theatre of Verulamium — the only one of its kind visible in Britain — is just across the road to complete the set.

Visiting St Albans

St Albans is barely 20 minutes by train from London St Pancras, with the cathedral a ten-minute walk from the station through the historic centre and its 600-year-old clock tower. The museum has its own pay-and-display car park beside the park; the cathedral opens daily and the museum every day except some holidays. Do the cathedral first, then wander down through the park to Rome — the whole circuit, with lunch, fills a wonderful day.

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