Hay-on-Wye

Hay-on-Wye is one of the most distinctive little towns in Wales.

Best known around the world for its bookshops and literary festival, it is also a lovely place to wander, with independent shops, cafés, galleries, a restored castle and the River Wye just beyond the centre.

Browse the Bookshops

You do not need to be a serious collector to enjoy Hay’s bookshops.

Part of the fun is simply wandering from one to another and seeing what turns up. Some specialise in particular subjects, while others spread across several rooms packed with everything from inexpensive paperbacks to rare and unusual books.

Allow far more time than you think you will need. It is very easy to disappear into one shop for half an hour and emerge carrying something you never intended to buy.

Explore Hay Castle

Hay Castle sits right in the centre of town and is much more than a ruined fortress.

The building combines medieval, Jacobean and Victorian history and has been carefully restored as a centre for culture, arts and learning.

You can explore the historic interiors, exhibitions and viewpoints, while the Great Hall, café and shop give you somewhere to stop even if you do not visit every part of the castle.

The castle also hosts talks, exhibitions, performances and family events throughout the year.

Wander Beyond the Books

Hay’s independent character stretches well beyond its bookshops.

The streets around the castle and market are filled with small shops selling gifts, art, antiques, clothing, food and other things you are unlikely to find in a typical high street.

There are plenty of cafés and places to eat too, so this is a town where stopping for coffee and simply watching the world go by is part of the visit.

Visit the Thursday Market

If you can, visit on a Thursday when Hay’s weekly market brings another layer of activity to the town centre.

Stalls sell a mixture of food, local produce, crafts and other goods, and the market fits naturally with a morning spent exploring the shops and castle.

Market days are naturally busier, so arrive earlier if you want easier parking and a quieter start.

Walk Down to the River Wye

When you have had enough of shops and books, head towards the River Wye.

The Warren is a popular riverside area just outside the centre where you can walk beside the water, sit on the grass or simply enjoy a quieter side of Hay.

It is particularly useful for families because children can have a run around after spending time in shops and cafés.

Experience Hay Festival

Hay-on-Wye becomes a very different place when the Hay Festival arrives.

The internationally known event brings writers, thinkers, performers and visitors from around the world to the town, with talks, discussions, music and family events spread across its programme.

It is a brilliant time to visit if you enjoy books and ideas, but accommodation and parking become much more important, so plan well ahead if the festival is the reason for your trip.

Stay a Little Longer

Hay also makes a good base if you want to explore the surrounding countryside.

Walking routes lead into the hills and along the Wye, while canoeing and other outdoor activities are available nearby.

That means you can easily combine a relaxed morning in town with a much more active afternoon.

A Few Useful Tips

Hay-on-Wye is compact and best explored on foot once you have parked.

Allow at least half a day if you want to browse the bookshops, visit the castle and stop for food. Book lovers could easily spend a full day here.

Hay Castle is currently open daily from 10am to 5pm, although occasional events can affect normal access. Check before travelling if the castle is a major part of your visit.

The Thursday market is one of the liveliest times to visit, but the town will naturally be busier.

The Hay Festival usually transforms the town in late spring. If you are visiting specifically for the festival, book accommodation well in advance.

Wear comfortable shoes. Hay is small, but a proper visit tends to involve far more wandering than the map suggests.