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Craigmillar Castle feels very different from Edinburgh Castle.
It is quieter, more compact and far easier to explore at your own pace, with staircases, courtyards, chambers and narrow passages that make it feel like a proper medieval stronghold rather than a large museum complex.
At the centre of the castle is a late medieval tower house, one of the oldest surviving examples of its type in Scotland.
Inside, you can work your way through several levels of rooms, including the great hall, storage areas and smaller chambers.
The narrow staircases and thick stone walls make it easy to imagine how enclosed and defensive life here once felt.
The great hall was once the main ceremonial and social room of the castle.
It would have been used for meals, meetings and entertaining important guests, and the surviving fireplace and proportions still give a good sense of how impressive it once was.
Because the room remains enclosed by substantial walls, it is easier to picture the original interior than at many more ruined castles.
Mary Queen of Scots stayed at Craigmillar in 1566 while recovering from illness and escaping the pressures of court life in Edinburgh.
According to tradition, it was during her stay that several nobles discussed what became known as the Craigmillar Bond, a plan to remove her troublesome husband Lord Darnley.
The castle therefore became linked with one of the most dramatic periods in Mary’s reign.
Not every room at Craigmillar was comfortable.
The castle includes a prison chamber, adding another reminder that this was a fortified residence where security and control mattered as much as comfort.
It is one of several smaller spaces that make exploring the castle more interesting than simply walking through a sequence of large rooms.
Outside the main castle, look for the remains of an unusual fishpond laid out in the shape of the letter P.
It is believed to refer to the Preston family, who owned Craigmillar for several centuries and were responsible for much of the castle’s development.
The surrounding parkland also helps explain why Craigmillar once worked as a peaceful rural retreat despite being so close to Edinburgh.
If you are happy with narrow stone staircases, climbing higher into the castle rewards you with excellent views across the city.
You can pick out Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle in the distance while still standing within a medieval fortress surrounded by open ground.
It is one of the best reasons to visit Craigmillar on a clear day.
Craigmillar Castle is at Craigmillar Castle Road, Edinburgh EH16 4SY.
From April to September, the castle is open daily from 9.30am to 5pm, with last entry at 4.30pm.
From October to March, it is open daily from 10am to 4pm, with last entry at 3.30pm.
Allow around one to one and a half hours for a relaxed visit.
There are currently some restrictions on the rooftop walkway while conservation work is carried out, although most of the castle remains open.
The castle has several levels, narrow historic staircases and uneven stone steps, so access to the upper floors is limited for anyone with reduced mobility.
There is a level surfaced car park with an accessible bay, and the visitor centre is reached on level ground.
The final approach to the inner courtyard includes a steeper grassed section that can become slippery in wet weather.
Stay in Edinburgh: Find accommodation for exploring Craigmillar Castle and the wider city.